Garage Notes

4th Gen Tacoma First Mods: The 5 Upgrades Builders Are Actually Doing First

April 24, 20265 min read
tacomasuspensionliftbuying-guide

The 4th gen Tacoma has been on the road for just over a year, and the builds are already coming in fast. The 2.4L turbo and hybrid drivetrain options changed the performance equation, but the platform also reset the aftermarket clock — what worked on a 3rd gen doesn't just bolt onto this truck. Here's exactly what builders are doing first, and where it's worth waiting for the market to catch up.

1. Wheels and Tires — Still the Right First Move

Stock 4th gen Tacomas run 17-inch wheels, and the tire situation depends on your trim. TRD Off-Road ships with 265/70R17 all-terrains. Trailhunter comes with 33s from the factory. If you're on Sport or SR5, your first move is rubber.

The most popular upgrade the community is running right now: 285/70R17 Falken Wildpeak AT4W on 17x8 Method 318s. This size fits most 4th gen trim levels without a lift kit — minor fender contact at full lock on some builds, but nothing that requires trimming. If you add a leveling kit, the 285/75R17 opens up without drama. The AT4W is the tire this platform keeps coming back to: quiet on pavement, capable in mud, and available in the sizes that work without stretching the rim.

Wheel offset matters here. The 4th gen's front wheel wells are tighter than the old platform, so stay in the +0 to +25mm range on anything wider than stock. The Method 318 at +25 is a proven fitment. Fuel Assault and KMC XD Series are also popular — verify offset before you order.

2. Leveling Kit or Lift — What's Actually Available

The 4th gen suspension is new enough that the aftermarket is still filling in. The good news: leveling kits are well-developed. The ReadyLift 3" SST kit ($449) is one of the most-installed early upgrades — new strut spacers to level the front and add lift height without touching the rear springs. For most builders running 285s, this is the sweet spot: budget-friendly, proven fitment, and it opens up tire sizing without geometry complications.

For a more complete overhaul, Eibach Pro Truck 2R kits are gaining traction — they include rear springs and do a better job of maintaining loaded geometry. If you're planning to carry camp gear or run an overland setup with real weight in the bed, the Eibach is worth the extra cost over a spacer-only kit.

One thing to plan for now: going above 3 inches on the 4th gen's IFS almost certainly requires aftermarket upper control arms to correct alignment angles. Dirt King UCAs are a popular combo with the ReadyLift. Budget for them upfront — adding them after the fact means pulling everything apart again.

3. Skid Plates — Don't Wait on This One

Stock skid plate coverage on the 4th gen is decent on TRD trims and minimal everywhere else. The oil pan, transmission, and transfer case are exposed on base Sport and SR5 configurations. This is the mod with the least community disagreement: do it early, before you need it.

TRD OEM skid plates bolt on without drama and run $350–$500 depending on which pieces you add. For more aggressive coverage, CBI Offroad and SteelCraft both have 4th gen kits that extend further toward the rear of the drivetrain. If you're running actual trails, CBI's full protection package is the move. If you're mostly on forest roads and fire roads, the TRD OEM plates get the job done without adding weight.

4. Ditch Lights — The Lighting Upgrade That Actually Matters

The 4th gen's factory headlights are better than what the 3rd gen shipped with, but ditch lights remain the most popular lighting upgrade in the community — and for good reason. They give you a wide flood pattern that fills the shadows your headlights miss on corners and trail edges, which is exactly where you need visibility.

Baja Designs Squadron Sport lights are the most common pairing. CA Tuned makes dedicated A-pillar ditch light brackets for the 4th gen that bolt cleanly without drilling. Budget $350–$500 total for a complete setup including brackets and wiring harness. TRD Off-Road, Trailhunter, and TRD Pro trims have a pre-wired factory switch block — wire straight to that. On Sport or SR5, you'll need to add a toggle or tap the fuse box.

5. Bed and Cargo Setup — Pick Your Direction Early

This is where 4th gen builders diverge fast. The standard 5-foot bed is versatile but tight, and how you plan to use it drives every downstream decision: roof rack or not, topper or not, bed rack or not. These components interact with each other, so picking a direction early saves you from buying things twice.

For overland setups, the most common complete configuration right now is a Sherpa Equipment Co. cab rack combined with a Decked drawer system or ARE topper. The Sherpa rack bolts to the cab roof for gear mounting without occupying bed space. Decked gives you two sealed drawers plus a flat platform for sleeping or gear staging. For trail-focused builds that stay lighter, skip the topper and run a Prinsu Design Studio bed rack only — cleaner, lighter, easier access.

What to Skip for Now

Full coilover and long-travel suspension systems for the 4th gen are still early. The platform is new, brands are still dialing in fitment, and the community doesn't have enough data on long-term reliability for most of the high-end kits yet. Unless you have a specific shop relationship with a brand doing prototype installs, do wheels, a leveling kit, skid plates, and lighting first. You'll spend $2,500–$3,500 and have a capable, well-protected rig while the rest of the market catches up.

If you're tracking parts across multiple vendors and trying to keep your build organized — part numbers, prices, links, what's ordered and what's still coming — Build List Garage makes it easy to log everything in one place and share your rig with one link. Download it free from the App Store.